Shein’s Sustainability: Fact or Fiction? 

BY VALERIA E. KONST

In today’s era, the name Shein has become synonymous with a major player in the fast fashion landscape. From the conscious critics on Twitter to the enthusiasts on TikTok and Youtube, opinions diverge, but its influence remains undeniable. Earning its stripes as the most talked-about brand in social media spheres, Shein has solidified its stature as a global hub for fashion devotees. 

Is the current situation ultimately a result of increasing inflation or is it indicative of a cultural crisis? Regardless, a substantial number of individuals have engaged with the fast fashion giant at least once in their lives. Established in 2008, Shein strategically leverages influencers to amplify its reach, capturing the attention of budget-conscious young women and not only. The defining trait? The remarkably affordable price tags on its garments, though questions about their durability linger

A quick scroll through platforms like TikTok, Instagram, or Youtube reveals a recurring trend – “Shein hauls”. This trend might help explain the brand’s impressive $10 billion earnings in 2020. Presently, Bloomberg reports a valuation soaring to nearly $100 billion, driven by strategic investments

The appeal lies in Shein’s highly economical price structure. This has ignited fervor among consumers and influencers, particularly those from Generation Z, who frequently unpack substantial Shein hauls, encompassing everything from disposable footwear to trendy handbags, crop tops, and jackets. Yet, amid this excitement lies the sobering reality of original designers witnessing their creations reproduced in subpar materials

Beneath the surface glamour, the treatment of workers, the environment, and animals within Shein’s supply chain warrants scrutiny. Is Shein truly the vanguard of fashion we envisioned, given the ethical and sustainability considerations that loom large? This query demands contemplation as we navigate the crossroads of style and accountability. 

How Sustainable Is Shein’s Approach? 

From hazardous chemicals to carbon emissions to microplastics, shein follows an unsustainable fast fashion model with quickly changing trends and regular new styles of a mass-producing industry. The manufacturers’ rapid use of virgin polyester and large consumption of oil churns out the same amount of CO2 as approximately 180 coal-fired power plants, according to Synthetics Anonymous 2.0, http://changingmarkets.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/Synthetics-Anonymous-2.0-Report-final-web.pdf  a report published on fashion sustainability. 

As a result, the company leaves about 6.3 million tons of carbon dioxide a year in its trail—a number that falls well below the 45% target to reduce global carbon emissions by 2030, which the U.N. has said is necessary for fashion companies to implement to help limit global warming as the fashion industry is responsible for releasing more than 10 percent of carbon emissions

First of all, examining the sustainability of their materials, it’s crucial to note that SHEIN clothing has been discovered to contain hazardous levels of lead and other toxic chemicals. These substances pose risks not only to workers and the environment but also to consumers who acquire SHEIN’s apparel, whether brand new or secondhand. 

Nevertheless, today, even though Shein asserts its commitment to reducing emissions and waste, it has not provided a clear outline of how it intends to achieve this goal. The only detail we have so far is that initial uses of more sustainable materials have been implemented, such as recycled polyester and recycled materials in packaging.  

Yet, something appears to not quite align with the entire narrative, raising strong reservations about this “beneficial” endeavor. Of the 52,000 dresses currently listed on the site, a mere 64 are touted as being made from recycled polyester. Given that these options start at a mere $4 (in contrast to sustainable brands where prices seldom dip below $50), it’s challenging to ascertain the authenticity of the eco-friendliness touted by these offerings.  

And the cherry on top? Nothing has changed to this day in terms of packaging. On the contrary, each item is still individually wrapped in a plastic bag. Take into account that each parcel is actually made up of countless small bags. Considering the quantity that is sent out on a daily basis, the impact is significant. 

Parallelly, despite its assertion of making efforts towards producing smaller batches to ensure reduced consumption of raw materials, Shein still manufactures millions of items annually, which inherently undermines the credibility of any such statements. 

Regarding shipping, the majority of products are sent out from warehouses in China, which has a hefty carbon footprint, since it constitutes the world’s largest emitter of greenhouse gases, with more emissions than all of the developed nations combined. While the U.S. is Shein’s largest market, it ships out to 220 countries in total. 

The absence of leather, fur, angora, or exotic animal skin in its products is a positive beginning. 

However, wool, down, exotic animal hair, decorative feathers, and silk are used without specified origins. Additionally, no tracking of animal products is conducted even in the initial production stages. While a formal policy adhering to the Five Freedoms of animal welfare exists, concrete implementation methods are not evident. There is certainly ample space for enhancement in this regard as well. 

What about working conditions and ethical practices? 

However, the more significant debate surrounding Shein centers on the treatment of its workers, who labor in inadequate conditions within Chinese factories. It all begins with the fact that SHEIN doesn’t facilitate the identification of their suppliers. This element plays a pivotal role in traceability and transparency. Without the coexistence of these two factors, no information can be deemed reliable. 

In October 2022, an undercover investigation from Channel 4 and The i newspaper in the UK revealed Shein workers work seven days a week were enduring grueling 75-hour shifts, some getting a base salary of only $556 per month to make 500 pieces of clothing per day, equating to earning two cents per item of clothing produced. Μoreover, at some factories, female employees washed their hair over their lunch break due to having no time to do so after their 18-hour-long work days

However, the accusations and allegations show no signs of stopping. 

Another detailed report was published by the “Public Eye” accusing Shein of violating Chinese labor laws. The organization enlisted independent Chinese researchers to monitor Shein’s manufacturing and packaging processes in both China and Europe, revealing that many of these operations were conducted within informal factories established in residential structures

And the saga continues… Advocacy groups and journalists also brought to light evidence indicating that Shein’s $11 bikinis and $7 crop tops were being manufactured by individuals toiling in hazardous workshops, lacking essential safety measures such as windows and emergency exits. Many of these workers were operating without contracts or adherence to minimum wage regulations, enabling the company to allegedly withhold proper payment from its employees. Channel 4’s documentary, “Inside The Shein Machine,” deployed undercover cameras to capture factory workers compelled to endure 17-hour shifts while producing hundreds of garments daily. In one factory, they received a daily base salary of $20, which could be reduced by $14 for any errors in the garments. Shein reluctantly acknowledged issues but with a rather vague response. 

Certainly, scandals keep surfacing. Remember the “help me” messages on SHEIN clothing labels that gained worldwide attention? Yet again, the company’s response was far from clear, offering an unusual explanation that it referred to using fabric softener during laundry. Needless to say, their response didn’t ease suspicions. Since then, the issue of child labor has sparked intense discussions, but Shein has consistently denied any connection to it. 

However, regardless of any allegations or scandals that emerge with solid evidence, Shein’s motto stands firm: 

“We treat our team like family by offering exceptional working conditions. We ensure a secure, clean, content, and efficient environment, with above-average compensation, benefits, and modern facilities.” 

Nevertheless, it would be quite intriguing if Shein were to address the question of where exactly the cotton for their clothes is sourced. This curiosity arises from the substantial body of evidence pointing towards their potential connection to Xinjiang, a region currently facing a US ban due to forced Uyghur labor. https://valeriascarlatto.gr/?p=1578 Of course, it might just be a coincidence. Maybe we’re mistaken… 

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