The fashion industry stands as the third most polluting sector on the global stage. With carbon dioxide emissions from the fast fashion industry projected to soar to nearly 2.8 billion tonnes by 2030, consumers and fashion brands are becoming increasingly aware of its destructive impact on our planet. As time marches on, it becomes a shared responsibility to cultivate a world that prioritizes ethics and sustainability. It’s important to remember that history has witnessed significant transformations ignited by the actions of once-unknown and seemingly incomprehensible individuals. In the same vein, we must deeply understand and explore the positive outcomes of this mobilization, just as our ancestors did.
However, it’s essential to recognize that simply labeling your brand or product as sustainable or ethical falls short if you don’t meet the fundamental prerequisites. That’s precisely why we’re here today, ready to assist whether you’re launching a new business or steering your brand toward a fresh direction.
It’s crucial to grasp that every effort counts, and each setback provides valuable lessons for finding the right path. This isn’t a competition but rather a collective mobilization that demands the attention of us all. Let’s not forget that it’s our home, and our Earth has borne enough burdens. It’s time for action. We’ve moved beyond the era of grandiose words and utopian philosophies as mere marketing strategies; now, we confront the consequences of our actions head-on.
Despite the resistance from some fast fashion giants, we stand resolute, upholding our values and our duty to fashion’s history, which eagerly awaits our elevation of its ethics and principles. We stand united, all working towards the ultimate goal of humanity and the very purpose of our existence: evolution.
It’s bewildering to realize that even as we enter 2023, with countless innovations and the emergence of the metaverse, we still grapple with antiquated practices. Is it primarily a financial issue, or does it signify a cultural crisis? As previously mentioned, economic and political interests undoubtedly play a role, but ultimately, consumerism shapes the market. What if at least 50% of brands incorporated sustainability and ethics into their core identity? What if all of us made conscientious choices when making purchases? What if we resisted the allure of fast fashion giants like SHEIN? What if we aligned our actions with our true values? Are we truly the individuals we believe ourselves to be, or is it merely a facade we enjoy donning?
Now, let’s delve into the factors to consider when forging a more sustainable and ethical brand identity.
- Mindset
First and foremost, we must profoundly comprehend our intentions and motivations. Everything begins with our mindset, and without it, we are susceptible to giving up at the first hurdle. Believing in sustainability and its ethical dimensions is paramount. When you genuinely grasp why you’re embarking on this journey, nothing can deter you, and even during challenging times, your vision will serve as your guiding light. However, it’s crucial to acknowledge that mindset is intrinsically linked to knowledge and information.
- Knowledge
Knowledge empowers. Before you even commence the search for sustainable and ethical suppliers, it’s vital to remain informed about the current state of affairs, past practices of other brands (both successful and unsuccessful), and the underlying reasons for their outcomes. Often, the most valuable marketing lessons stem from understanding the mistakes of others.
Take the time to comprehend the real issues within the fashion industry. Recognize that you won’t singlehandedly save the world, but commit to achieving meaningful goals. While it’s tempting to believe you have the perfect solution, remember that what seems ideal today might be deemed inadequate tomorrow, as evidenced by the fate of various alternative materials like sustainable leathers. Be passionate but stay humble; this mobilization requires dedication devoid of ego.
Reading about past attempts and the challenges faced over the years will unveil the root causes of today’s cultural crisis. Sustainability isn’t a passing trend to make us appear more responsible or ethical; it’s our current reality. There’s no more room for negotiation; it’s about taking action, fostering awareness, and radically transforming our daily thoughts and actions.
Therefore, if you genuinely wish to identify sustainable or ethical fabrics and suppliers, determine whether any marketing strategy benefits you financially, and evaluate your brand’s readiness for this transformation, read as extensively as possible or consider enlisting someone well-versed in this field. Knowledge can shield you from naive investments and unwise decisions. Always remember that you bear the risk, and every decision will impact your brand’s trajectory. It’s wiser to take gradual, informed steps while staying updated daily, rather than rushing into hasty decisions. Mistakes are part of the business game; just ensure you have the necessary margin to handle them if they occur.
- Call to Action
Take the time to explore all available sustainable fabrics. It’s widely accepted that embracing a more sustainable and ethical path entails considering various facets. This means selecting cruelty-free raw materials that are both environmentally friendly and durable, produced through ethical processes. Your product line should not involve the exploitation of animals, the use of toxic chemicals, or the endorsement of unacceptable working conditions for laborers.
From the inception of your clothing to its end-of-life, you bear responsibility for its impact, which defines your authenticity and identity. Pose critical questions:
- Who manufactures your clothes and under what conditions?
- Is your fabric environmentally friendly over the long term?
- Do you create durable clothing?
- Have toxic chemicals been employed in the production of your clothes?
- Have toxic inks been utilized for dyeing?
- Are your materials recyclable, and can they be recycled even after their use?
- Do you educate your customers about sustainable product care and post-use practices?
- What types of packaging materials do you use, both internally and for the customer?
- Do you collaborate with certified eco-friendly suppliers committed to reducing carbon footprints?
Addressing these questions can resolve many of your considerations. While perfection isn’t obligatory, being well-informed about every aspect is imperative. You can opt for materials like organic cotton, hemp, Tencel, linen, and modal, which have a lower environmental footprint, but always remember that every choice carries an environmental impact.
Avoid becoming fixated or disheartened; instead, take action, even if it means taking small steps. Some brands start with eco-friendly packaging, while others initiate a capsule collection of organic cotton t-shirts. You determine the level of risk you’re willing to undertake. Simultaneously, leverage your skills to effectively promote this strategy and educate your clientele. Ultimately, it’s all about marketing, and you are responsible for how your customers perceive you.
- Find Your Target Group
One of the most valuable pieces of advice is to understand your target group better than they understand themselves. This entails knowing their interests, habits, needs, and desires, even those buried deep within their minds. We all harbor latent desires that, when fulfilled, evoke strong emotions and cravings. To gain customers, you must evoke emotions. Customers make purchases based on feelings, and when addressing significant societal issues such as the environment, working conditions, and animal cruelty, educating your customers intelligently can tap into their empathy. This builds a strong connection and presents your actions as a public benefit, benefiting your brand’s DNA.
Being part of a more sustainable and ethical fashion industry isn’t merely a marketing strategy. However, to encourage people to think consciously and buy responsibly, you must create a robust plan capable of attracting a portion of the fast fashion target group, often distracted by low prices rather than their true beliefs and values. This is a significant achievement that only a few brands have attained, but it’s the overarching vision and goal needed to calm turbulent waters. The obsession with fast fashion will subside as long as it finds us prepared.
- Beat the Fashion Industry’s Weakness: Quality
Quality is the linchpin. Increasing numbers of individuals have grown disillusioned with the fashion industry, including fast fashion, due to the often short-lived quality of their products. This challenge plagues many fashion giants, and if you capitalize on it, you can cater to your customers’ long-term needs, providing both durability and sustainability.
Take a look at some solid sustainable options worth considering…
- Organic linen
Pros: It is versatile, recyclable, absorbent, moisture-wicking, hypoallergenic and protects from bacteria, fungus, and infections.
Linen is extracted from a renewable resource: the flax plant. The flax plant has an overall low water footprint. It takes only 6.4 liters of water to make a linen shirt compared to 26 liters for a cotton shirt.
Cons: Unfortunately, in today’s market, linen is more expensive than cotton because of its costly manufacturing. It represents less than 1% of all textile fibers consumed worldwide. Also, It doesn’t have much elasticity, so it’s not good for certain types of clothing (like activewear) and
wrinkles easily.
Some brands have already incorporeted it like Rachel Craven, Mila, Pyne & Smith, Magic Linen, Linen Fox, Míe etc.
- Organic hemp
Pros: It has excellent durability. It’s one of the oldest textile fibers in the world. It was already used 10,000 years ago to make clothing. It’s eco-friendly, natural, soft, breathable and lightweight. Hemp fibers are highly resistant and anti-bacterial. Hemp plants grow quicker and easier than most trees, require little water, and almost no pesticides or fertilizers. Hemp is also biodegradable, compostable, and recyclable. Hemp production has a much lower impact than cotton production. One kilogram of hemp requires up to 500 liters of water (130 gallons) whereas one kilogram of cotton requires up to 20,000 liters of water (5,300 gallons). Hemp is much better than cotton to make eco-friendly and durable clothing. But it was quickly abandoned in the past and replaced by cotton because cotton is easier and cheaper to mass-produce.
Cons: It has a bad reputation since its a variety of the cannabis plant. Also, feels textured. Hemp is not as soft as cotton, and many feel tougher on the skin. However, with every wash, it becomes softer. Some manufacturers also blend it with other fabric types for a softer texture. Another con is that it tends to wrinkle easily. As a result, this fabric requires extra care when washing and drying. Lastly, the price of it is a major disadvantage.
Brands: Tentree, Toad&Co, Thought, Patagonia, COS, Braintree, Nomads, Arraei etc.
- Recycled polyester
Pros: Recycled polyester is much better than virgin polyester. It can reduce energy consumption by 30-50%, water consumption by nearly 90%, and greenhouse gas emissions by about 60%.
Recycled polyester is also known as rPET. It’s manufactured from PET bottles, industrial polyester waste, or used garments. However, the global rPET market is declining due to China’s waste import ban at the end of 2017, which has stalled global recycling.
Cons: The fibres still end up in our waterways and our oceans through our washing machines but still, it’s a sustainable act as we upcycle all the non-reusable plastic bottles.
GOOD NEWS: There are some filters that can help reduce the release of plastic fibers from clothes into the environment. One example is PlanetCare, a Slovenian startup that sells microfiber filters for washing machines. Another option is to use Guppyfriend, a washing bag that traps microfibers inside.
Brands: Nau, Rainbird, Stella McCartney, The North Face, prAna etc.
Jute fabric
Pros: Jute is one of the cheapest natural fibers in the world. It’s strong, durable, versatile, breathable, and lightweight. It’s often used in canvas, cordage, rugs, carpets, and curtains as well as bags, wallets, footwear, and apparel like sweaters, pullovers, and jackets. It’s also known as the golden fiber. It isn’t largely accepted in the western world but is widely used in Asian countries. Jute is a very sustainable clothing material, it’s natural, biodegradable, compostable, and recyclable. It has a high crop yield and growth efficiency. Plus, it absorbs a lot of carbon dioxide and releases more oxygen than most trees.
Cons: Jute is a natural material rarely used in garments that come directly in contact with the skin since it isn’t soft enough.
Brands: Adolfo Dominguez, Benzer, Celtic Fusion, Solné etc.
- Recycled nylon
Pros: Nylon or polyamide can be recycled, recreated, remolded, and become brand new again to create new products without having to use new resources. It represents 5% of global fiber production. Recycled nylon can be used in stylish clothes, lingerie, swimwear, and activewear. Recycled nylon has similar properties to conventional nylon, such as being strong, elastic, and long-lasting 1. It also dries quickly and retains its shape after being washed . The final products are soft, durable and high quality. It’s manufactured from post-consumer and post-industrial wastes, such as fabric scraps, carpet flooring, fishing nets, and industrial plastics from landfills and oceans. Econyl is one of the most well-known brands of regenerated nylon. For every one ton of raw material, Econyl can save up to 7 barrels of crude oil and 5.7 tons of CO2 equivalent emissions.
Cons: It’s not flame-retardant, needs a lot of energy to produce, it’s non-biodegradable and has terrible moisture-wicking capabilities which is a poor choice for activewear.
Brands: Arnhem, Mara Hoffman, Othersea, Vaindane, Outerknown etc.
- Lyocell
Lyocell isn’t a natural or synthetic material. It’s a man-made semi-synthetic fabric made of regenerated cellulosic fiber, similar to viscose-rayon, acetate, cupro, and modal. The annual production of man-made cellulosic fibers is 6.7 million tons. They represent 6.2% of the total fiber production volume. Lyocell is the third most used man-made cellulosic fiber after viscose and acetate.
Pros: Lyocell is a cellulose-based fiber made from renewable resources such as wood. It’s soft, breathable, lightweight, durable, anti-bacterial, and moisture-wicking. It is is comfortable, luxurious, and remains odor-free much longer than cotton. It can also be environmentally friendly with sustainable production methods that use closed-loop processes to recover almost all water and chemicals.
Cons: The main con of Lyocell is its price and its high energy consumption.
Brands: Eileen Fisher, Encircled, Lanius, As We Are Now (AWAN), Velvet Heart etc.
- Organic cotton (or recycled cotton fabric)
Pros: A more sustainable alternative to conventional cotton is the organic version of the material. Organic cotton is grown without all the harmful pesticides and produced without the dangerous chemicals that normal cotton uses.
The most sustainable way to wear cotton is in its recycled form. This fabric is made with post-industrial and post-consumer waste and uses far less water and energy to produce in comparison with conventional and organic cotton.
Cons: Products made from organic cotton fabric usually cost more to buy. Organic cotton products have been reported to be on average 20-30% more expensive than regular cotton products. Also, one of the major problems in the cotton sector is its excessive water use, organic or not.
On average, it has been found that an organic cotton yield is 25% lower than the yield of conventionally farmed cotton. This represents one of the distinct disadvantages of organic cotton because it means that to have the same yield farmers need to plant more cotton plants. This means more land cleared and more water and resources used.
Lastly, certifications are a core part of a sustainable sector. However, if there isn’t a wide consumer knowledge base about these certifications then they become less useful. From GOTS to OCS the range of acronyms can quickly become confusing when trying to decipher which cotton is sustainable. Some certifications to look out for that indicate sustainable organic cotton include: Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), Organic Content Standard (OCS) and Soil Association Organic.
Having cotton labelled as organic though isn’t exactly an easy process for brands to go through. It requires multiple hoops that have to be jumped through and, in a lot of cases, a lot of time and money spent. While having an organic certification does come with advantages, for many organisations, particularly smaller brands, it can seem unfeasible.
For just GOTS certification, organisations must pay a fee to be certified and then annual payments to maintain certification.
Brands that use organic cotton: Pact, Colorful Standard etc.
- Tencel Lyocell fabric
Pros: A relatively new fabric, Tencel is made from wood pulp, and its properties are similar to those of rayon. Since it’s derived from plant material, it is biodegradable. According to Green Story’s Green Fabric Guide, the process for creating Tencel fiber was designed specifically to reduce environmental impact.
The production of Tencel uses only one-third of the water that is needed to produce rayon, and over 99% of the water and solvents used are able to be recycled! That means there is no need for new solvents.
This greatly reduces the release of dangerous chemicals into the surrounding environment. Plus, the solvents used in Tencel production are non-toxic, unlike those of viscose.
Tencel is on the more expensive side of things, but it’s very durable and will last a long time. You get what you pay for! While it is not widely available for production yet, the industry is growing fast.
Cons: Tencel fabrics come with their fair share of drawbacks. They exhibit a notable sensitivity to temperature fluctuations, tending to stiffen under hot and humid conditions, yet displaying subpar absorption capabilities in cold water. Additionally, their lack of elasticity is a defining downside, as their uniform fiber cross-section conceals a fragility in fibril bonding, resulting in a notable absence of stretchiness. Lastly, it’s worth noting that Tencel fabrics can be on the pricier side, surpassing the cost of cotton materials, although still falling short of the extravagance associated with silk fabrics.
Brands that use Tencel: Toad & Co, Ministry of Supply etc.
- Econyl fabric
Pros: If after reading about nylon you are looking for a better alternative, try Econyl. This fabric is made from waste materials such as industrial plastic and fishing nets. The process is closed-loop, which seems to be a trend in all of the future fabrics. Econyl is made from reclaimed and regenerated nylon, reducing waste and pollution. It has the same strength and quality as virgin nylon, making it suitable for various applications and also saves 16.2 gigajoules of energy and seven barrels of oil for every metric ton of nylon produced.
Cons: Note that since this material is made from plastic, small particles may be released when a clothing item is washed. Econyl is most sustainable in the form of items that do not need to be washed often, such as sneakers or backpacks. For items that do need to be washed try using a washing bag which helps prevent microplastics from entering the waterways.
Furthermore, Econyl has poor resistance to UV and sunlight, making it prone to fading and degradation. Also, it gathers static electricity, which can cause discomfort and clinginess. It has low thermal stability and heat resistance, making it unsuitable for high-temperature environments or ironing.
Brands that use econyl: Outerknown, Girlfriend Collective etc.
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