What Makes Gabriela Hearst’s Sustainability Strategy Stand Out From Other Ethical Brands?

BY VALERIA E. KONST

In a vast industry with high consumer expectations, the path to success appears increasingly intricate. As we’re aware, sustainability has become the Νew Normal, yet fashion giants seem to struggle in fully integrating it into their business practices. On one hand, great innovative sustainable materials like Mylo leather or Pinatex cannot yet rival real leather in terms of durability. When consumers purchase garments with a limited lifespan, it raises doubts about the sustainability of such actions. This prompts us to consider not only the fabrics themselves but also the broader impact of each strategy. What about reducing the use of polyester or nylon? While alternatives to these fabrics may offer greater sustainability, the situation is not as straightforward as it seems.

Let’s clarify, this isn’t a mere “ethical competition,” and a brand isn’t automatically ethical simply because it avoids using animal skins like Gabriela Hearst does. The concept of ethics delves deeper, emphasizing consciousness and proactive changes towards ethical branding. The reason being, as every industry evolves and incorporates new scientific technologies, the fashion sector must also progress and adhere to updated standards.

Keep in mind, new technology isn’t limited to our favorite gaming sector; many luxury brands have already embraced it. Moreover, it pertains to crucial advancements in our industry, such as lab-grown leather. Although still in its infancy, it’s essential to approach fashion with this forward-thinking mindset, rather than opting for the easiest route.

Source: VitroLabs leatherADAM DILLON

The fashion industry is more voracious than ever in this era of modernization. A clear indication of this is the stagnation of fashion history, with trends being recycled time and time again. If we are to embrace a new “trend,” then sustainability could indeed be the one and only, even though it’s not merely a passing fad.

Gabriela Hearst seems to have understood the assignment and has adopted smart methods in order to maintain her brand’s growth while simultaneously respecting the planet. From the very beginning, with her first womenswear collection for fall/winter in 2015, she entered the industry with a vision of long-term sustainability. Even if I’m very negative about the use of animals in her collections, I’m really impressed by her strategies. From the fact that she creates limited timeless quantities for each collection to achieving the goal of being plastic-free, and even her decision to convert her shipping from airplanes to boats – despite the significant delays – she really seems to have grasped the essence of sustainability by adopting immediate practical solutions rather than theoretical ones. This means that through sustainable solutions, there are always trade-offs for a brand. For instance, shipping with boats might entail significant delays, but what about the cost savings?

These are some of her genius practices that contribute to a more sustainable brand, and we’re not even done yet. Why is Gabriela Hearst succeeding in sustainability? Her products deliver on their promises: valuable, high-quality, durable, and timeless. Bingo! With just a few classic pieces from her collections, a consumer can build an entire classy, aesthetic, luxurious wardrobe that will last a lifetime with minimal negative environmental impact. What could be more sustainable than this?

Gabriela Hearst’s practices are not just coincidental; she has openly acknowledged her inspiration from her upbringing and has consistently demonstrated her commitment to a brighter future in the fashion industry. As early as 2016, she introduced TIPA flexible packaging, which offers bio-based alternatives to traditional plastic packaging that are fully compostable within six months. As we explored in the article ‘How Can Your Brand Succeed In a Circular Fashion System?’, initiatives like this are among the most fundamental and crucial steps toward building a more sustainable brand. Packaging has always played a significant role for consumers. According to McKinsey, approximately half of US consumers are willing to pay more for sustainable packaging. Across different end-use areas, about 50 percent of consumers are willing to pay 1 to 3 percent more, 25 percent are willing to pay 4 to 7 percent more, and approximately 12 percent are willing to pay 7 to 10 percent more. As you can see, we are addressing consumer needs, and as a result, your brand’s profitability.

In her pursuit of sustainability, Gabriela Hearst has consistently sought alternatives in every aspect of her brand. For example, she has repurposed leftover materials multiple times for her shows, a practice that many famous so-called sustainable brands have regrettably ignored. Did you know that, according to recent studies, out of the 100 billion garments produced each year, 92 million tonnes end up in landfills? That’s the equivalent of a rubbish truck full of clothes ending up on landfill sites every second! If this trend continues, the amount of fast fashion waste is expected to soar to 134 million tonnes a year by the end of the decade. Specifically, in 2023, the fashion industry produced a staggering 97 million tons of waste annually, including 18 million tons of leftover textiles, 2.5 million tons of chemical waste, and 3 million tons of packaging materials. How many of your favorite brands have taken these numbers seriously? Every detail contributes to a brand’s DNA, and Gabriela Hearst appears to care more about these issues than even our most beloved designers.

Source: Gabriela Hearst

In her Resort 18′ Collection, Gabriela Hearst introduced a new fabric called aloe-treated linen, which surpasses cotton in several aspects. This innovative fabric absorbs less water and features an aloe vera oil treatment that enhances its cool, comfortable feel while making it hypoallergenic and much softer. It’s the perfect breathable material for warmer temperatures and the most long-lasting sustainable option you could ever purchase.

On the other hand, many brands, in their quest to win over consumers, fall short in the impact of their practices. Despite being part of a widespread effort for radical change, their use of low-quality raw materials or non-biodegradable substances, as well as excessive quantities of toxic dyes, result in a negative environmental footprint. No marketing strategy centered on recycled polyester or vegan leather can salvage a brand’s reputation, as consumers are increasingly conscious and base their purchases on a deeper understanding of life, rather than following trends. The key to effective marketing lies in comprehending consumer behavior and needs. In the era of the New Normal, your business acumen is paramount. Without a genuine belief in sustainability, it’s impossible to grasp and address your brand’s footprint, as sustainability begins with production and extends to the end of a garment’s life cycle. It’s not merely a trend; it’s the new reality that prompts critical questions like ‘Where are your clothes made?’ ‘By whom?’ ‘How?’ and ‘Through which processes?’ or ‘What becomes of your extravagant collection after it leaves the runway or the store? Is it still considered luxurious at the end of its life?’

As Gabriela Hearst astutely remarked,“Who cares who has the biggest collection and the biggest brand if our enviroment is suffering?”

It’s not surprising at all that the designer was recently selected to receive TIME’s 2024 Earth Award.

We adore the concept of “honest luxury” and eagerly anticipate seeing more of it on the runways.

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